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Old 02-10-2006, 11:35 PM   #1
jerzyhxc1161
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HELP...buying an 84 supra for $1000

I want to buy an 1984 Toyota Supra down the street from where i live. The only serious problem with it is that the sunroof is rusted through. I want to purchase the car and put a new sunroof on it. He is asking $1000, with 124000 miles on it. I plan to negotiate the difference for the repair on the sunroof. Is this car worth it? I dont know too much about old supras.
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Old 02-10-2006, 11:38 PM   #2
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jerzyhxc1161
I want to buy an 1984 Toyota Supra down the street from where i live. The only serious problem with it is that the sunroof is rusted through. I want to purchase the car and put a new sunroof on it. He is asking $1000, with 124000 miles on it. I plan to negotiate the difference for the repair on the sunroof. Is this car worth it? I dont know too much about old supras.
In that case you'll have to convince him to give you the car for free. Paying someone to properly graft in a new sunroof will easily cost you in the neighborhood of $1k.
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Old 02-10-2006, 11:43 PM   #3
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I dont think its going to cost me that much to get the job done around here... or that i need to replace the whole sunroof...im waiting on getting the dimensions for the sunroof to get an estimate on the installation
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Old 02-11-2006, 06:46 AM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jerzyhxc1161
I dont think its going to cost me that much to get the job done around here... or that i need to replace the whole sunroof...im waiting on getting the dimensions for the sunroof to get an estimate on the installation
Is it stick? Id say offer him 600, becuase it sounds like a good price.
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Old 02-11-2006, 03:34 PM   #5
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Originally Posted by vwhobo
In that case you'll have to convince him to give you the car for free. Paying someone to properly graft in a new sunroof will easily cost you in the neighborhood of $1k.

Not if you use



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Old 02-11-2006, 04:40 PM   #6
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yeah its a 5 speed... it looks real fast
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Old 02-11-2006, 05:53 PM   #7
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Originally Posted by jerzyhxc1161
yeah its a 5 speed... it looks real fast
Those cars arent easy to find. Is there anytihng else wrong with it? Is it mechanically sound? If the roof is rusted, why replace it when you can just patch the spots that are rusted. I would agree with him to take it to a shop, and get a cost for the repairs, and then negotiate. Dont say you are buying the car though, because they might charge more. Have him say that youre his son, and he wants to give you the car as a gift, they might lower the price. I know it works around here. Also NEVER mention any quotes from other shops.
Also care to post a picture so we know what kinda damage it has?
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Old 02-12-2006, 05:19 AM   #8
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i met up with him today for a test drive...i found out he put a new clutch in it AND i talked him down to $800.
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Old 02-12-2006, 05:27 AM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jerzyhxc1161
i met up with him today for a test drive...i found out he put a new clutch in it AND i talked him down to $800.
So you got her?...Can you post some pics, and of the sunroof/damage?
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Old 02-12-2006, 07:07 AM   #10
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Originally Posted by chris_knows
What's the difference between heads up/heads down/bracket racing?
I saw your sig and I don't know if your serious or what but I'm bored so...bracket racing is where you pick a time that you think your car can do and so does your opponent. whoever gets closest to that time w/o going over wins, as far as I know. I suppose heads up racing is just a straight up race. I dont really know though I'm talkin out of my arse for the most part.
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Old 02-12-2006, 07:28 AM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bebopin64
I saw your sig and I don't know if your serious or what but I'm bored so...bracket racing is where you pick a time that you think your car can do and so does your opponent. whoever gets closest to that time w/o going over wins, as far as I know. I suppose heads up racing is just a straight up race. I dont really know though I'm talkin out of my arse for the most part.
I was serious about those questions, and thanks, but to clear things up...is it like

Mike and his 'Vette say he'll get 12.6 in the 1/4 and
Rob and his Chevelle say he'll get 12.9 in the 1/4
and then Mike runs 12.8 and Rob runs 12.2, so Mike would have won the race?

Just clearing things up because that seems like an odd way to race lol...
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Old 02-12-2006, 01:45 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chris_knows
I was serious about those questions, and thanks, but to clear things up...is it like

Mike and his 'Vette say he'll get 12.6 in the 1/4 and
Rob and his Chevelle say he'll get 12.9 in the 1/4
and then Mike runs 12.8 and Rob runs 12.2, so Mike would have won the race?

Just clearing things up because that seems like an odd way to race lol...
That's not quite how it works, but that's part of it. If you used your friend search, you'd find out that I explained bracket racing in depth years ago on this forum.
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Old 02-12-2006, 05:54 PM   #13
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Originally Posted by vwhobo
That's not quite how it works, but that's part of it. If you used your friend search, you'd find out that I explained bracket racing in depth years ago on this forum.
http://www.slantsix.org/articles/bra...acket_race.htm

Quote:
Once you've had some baseline practice runs, it's time to go gambling. What you're about to do is bet you can run slightly SLOWER than your stated "dial-in" and therefore win the race. Sound backwards? Welcome to bracket racing, the Rubik's Cube of drag racing competition. On your last time trial pass, when you stop at the timing shack to pick up your time slip, you'll be asked what e.t. you'd like to dial in. Translated, they're asking you what you think you can run consistently.

Car Number, Class & Dial-in If you give them a time (which they'll write on your windshield / window with shoe polish) and run faster, you'll lose by "breaking-out", unless the guy you're racing also breaks out and does it to a greater degree. In other words, if you "break out" (run under) by one-tenth and the other guy breaks out by two-tenths, you'll win because he was farther under his dial in. You should go back and read this paragraph a few more times to be sure you understand what's happening here because this is the key to bracket racing. Also note that the elapsed time you dial-in at is NOT set in stone. If the weather changes or one lane is running faster than the other, racers will change their dial-in time to compensate round to round. (This is why you should have your own shoe polish handy.) Always be sure your selected dial-in time is written clearly and in a place where the tower and starting line workers can see it. Your time should be written on the passenger side of the front windshield and on the side passenger window. (Two places minimum) It is the RACER'S responsibility to be sure the correct dial-in time gets entered into the computer for the run. That's right, you need to look at the finish line score board or the starting line display (if the track has one) to be sure When Your Racing Class is Called, Go to the Staging Lanesyour dial-in time has been seen and entered-in correctly.
So isn't that what bebopin64 said?

EDIT:

I just realized that I messed up, and meant:
Mike and his 'Vette say he'll get 12.6 in the 1/4 and
Rob and his Chevelle say he'll get 12.9 in the 1/4
and then Mike runs 12.8 and Rob runs 12.2, so Rob would have won the race?
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Old 02-12-2006, 06:14 PM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chris_knowsSo isn't that what bebopin64 said?

EDIT:

I just realized that I messed up, and meant:
Mike and his 'Vette say he'll get 12.6 in the 1/4 and
Rob and his Chevelle say he'll get 12.9 in the 1/4
and then Mike runs 12.8 and Rob runs 12.2, so [B
Rob[/b] would have won the race?
Read closely. That's not quite how it works, but that's part of it.
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Old 02-13-2006, 04:19 PM   #15
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hey jerzy, u got the car? if so, nice!

those MKII's are really damn good. they may not be speeding bullets, but they surely make up for it by being able to run just fine even when in bad shape (something the later 2 generations cant exactly do).


post pics.
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