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Old 12-08-2006, 08:14 AM   #1
Gwokable
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[Entertainment] Beware of Axle/Spindle nuts on honda's.

Allright, so I need to do my momma's passanger side CV boot, front and rear break pads and clips, shoes and springs, and replace her sway bar bushings. This is a 1990 Honda Accord LX.

Everyone's done it, the procidure is simple. Pull the wheel cover, 4 tire nuts, then the tire. Then pull the 2 caliper bolts, pull the caliper off, then pull the pads off, inspect the whole works, pull the clips off then compress the caliper with the kit, then reverse; clips, pads, caliper, 2 bolts, wheel, 4 bolts, then wheel cover. Bim bam boom takes an hour with the right parts. Rear pads are easy; pull the springs, pull the boots, inspect the works, lube the starwheel, then reassemble. Again, an hour job at the most with a good kit. Bushings and CV boot are easy.

It's day 3 and the project we haven't even finished the front pads yet.

Why? Honda's are evil, beware. Me and a buddy start working on it; I take the drivers side, he takes the passangers side. My side is easy, his side has costed us 3 days of work.

He snaps 2 tire bolts since they are siezed with an 18 inch breaker bar. We get the tire off and find out that we've got to pull 4 bolts and the spindle nut in order to get the wheel bolt plate off. It was simple, until we had to go out and get a nut-cut-in kit, the kind that has reverse threads for cutting into and removing a nut using an impact wrench; one of the nuts holding the plate in stripped completly.

Allright, so far so good. Now for the axle/spindle nut. Normal removal is; you pull the little clip, and get a big socket and a breaker bar, torque it off and everyone is happy.

So we get the big socket on it, put the wrench on it. Crank, and it will not budge. Hrmph. So we go ahead and try the breaker bar, no go. Try the inpact wrench; the 5 gallon air compressor runs out of air before the 400 foot-pound impact wrench does anything. Get the breaker bar out again and I, being about 400 pounds, stand and jump up and down on it causing the breakerbar link to click; not a thing. We soak it in liquid wrench and try all the aformentioned things. We try a torch and it doesn't work either.

Many ideas were thought of to produce more torque including bracing the breaker bar against something, turning the car on and hitting the pedal to the metal; it's foward wheel drive so it's possible. But instead, we get a better idea.

So, we go out and get a dremel tool, 20 cut off wheels and an impact chisel. Cut it down with the dremel tool, chisel away at the cut, and repeat.

An hour later using the impact chizzle at an angle, we're able to force the nut to move after puting a hairline fracture in it and removing 90% of the metal across a 10 degree section of it. There's minimal damage to the spindle threads, so it's good.

Now I get home tonight and start talking with one of my buddies friends; she says her boyfriend had the same problem doing the suspension on a 92 honda civic.

Then I found this:

http://civic-minded.com/Article53.html

So a word of warning; that spindle nut can be a BITCH on honda's.

Last edited by Gwokable : 12-08-2006 at 06:53 PM.
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Old 12-08-2006, 09:09 AM   #2
Mathew
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Gwokable

So, we go out and get a dremel tool, 20 cut off wheels and an impact chizzle.

.
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Old 12-08-2006, 05:58 PM   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Gwokable
So, we go out and get a dremel tool, 20 cut off wheels and an impact chizzle. Cut it down with the dremel tool, chizzle away at the cut, and repeat.
Those things are evil, lol.....so noisy, too!
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Old 12-08-2006, 06:54 PM   #4
Gwokable
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mathew
.

Forgot how it was spelled :X...

Heh, similar meaning tho.
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Old 12-09-2006, 05:36 AM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Gwokable
Allright, so I need to do my momma's passanger side CV boot, front and rear break pads and clips, shoes and springs, and replace her sway bar bushings. This is a 1990 Honda Accord LX.

Everyone's done it, the procidure is simple. Pull the wheel cover, 4 tire nuts, then the tire. Then pull the 2 caliper bolts, pull the caliper off, then pull the pads off, inspect the whole works, pull the clips off then compress the caliper with the kit, then reverse; clips, pads, caliper, 2 bolts, wheel, 4 bolts, then wheel cover. Bim bam boom takes an hour with the right parts. Rear pads are easy; pull the springs, pull the boots, inspect the works, lube the starwheel, then reassemble. Again, an hour job at the most with a good kit. Bushings and CV boot are easy.

It's day 3 and the project we haven't even finished the front pads yet.

Why? Honda's are evil, beware. Me and a buddy start working on it; I take the drivers side, he takes the passangers side. My side is easy, his side has costed us 3 days of work.

He snaps 2 tire bolts since they are siezed with an 18 inch breaker bar. We get the tire off and find out that we've got to pull 4 bolts and the spindle nut in order to get the wheel bolt plate off. It was simple, until we had to go out and get a nut-cut-in kit, the kind that has reverse threads for cutting into and removing a nut using an impact wrench; one of the nuts holding the plate in stripped completly.

Allright, so far so good. Now for the axle/spindle nut. Normal removal is; you pull the little clip, and get a big socket and a breaker bar, torque it off and everyone is happy.

So we get the big socket on it, put the wrench on it. Crank, and it will not budge. Hrmph. So we go ahead and try the breaker bar, no go. Try the inpact wrench; the 5 gallon air compressor runs out of air before the 400 foot-pound impact wrench does anything. Get the breaker bar out again and I, being about 400 pounds, stand and jump up and down on it causing the breakerbar link to click; not a thing. We soak it in liquid wrench and try all the aformentioned things. We try a torch and it doesn't work either.

Many ideas were thought of to produce more torque including bracing the breaker bar against something, turning the car on and hitting the pedal to the metal; it's foward wheel drive so it's possible. But instead, we get a better idea.

So, we go out and get a dremel tool, 20 cut off wheels and an impact chisel. Cut it down with the dremel tool, chisel away at the cut, and repeat.

An hour later using the impact chizzle at an angle, we're able to force the nut to move after puting a hairline fracture in it and removing 90% of the metal across a 10 degree section of it. There's minimal damage to the spindle threads, so it's good.

Now I get home tonight and start talking with one of my buddies friends; she says her boyfriend had the same problem doing the suspension on a 92 honda civic.

Then I found this:

http://civic-minded.com/Article53.html

So a word of warning; that spindle nut can be a BITCH on honda's.

I experienced this with a Honda about 2 weeks ago. I was using a 2 foot breaker bar. Pulled had it on the nut and the bar paralell with the ground. Pulled up as hard as I could, then gave it a yank with all I had left. The entire front of the car scooted over about 6 inches away from me, and the nut still didn't budge. However a few times of this cracked it loose. Same story for both sides.
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Old 12-09-2006, 07:19 AM   #6
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next time, if you had funds or resources, ingersallrand top o' the line impact gun and shop air pressure bare minimum 125 psi, nothing has stopped it yet, and if it has nuthing a little moov-it and a coffee break wont fix
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Old 12-09-2006, 08:25 AM   #7
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Does anyone have an idea as to why it's that difficult?
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Old 12-10-2006, 04:37 AM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Gwokable
Does anyone have an idea as to why it's that difficult?
Well, they are usually staked after they are torqued to a HEFTY 140ft-lbs.
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Old 12-10-2006, 11:35 AM   #9
Gwokable
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Originally Posted by 67Coronet383
Well, they are usually staked after they are torqued to a HEFTY 140ft-lbs.

To get the thing on we needed well over 300ft-Ibs then there's a section of the nut you need to press in to lock the nut onto the spindle. Even after cutting out that section nothing would budge it.
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