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Old 04-19-2007, 02:16 AM   #16
corbett_auto
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You can get by with just a cut off wheel and drill. But an air chisel and a good spot weld cutter make things go a little smoother.

AS I mentioned what you will need to do once you have the new pieces is pay close attention to how the factory put the car together...then what you want to do is reverse the process, replace the needed parts and then re-assemble. Along the way yuou may discover that a few other pieces may not be reuseable..if so you will need to repair them or replace them...

As far as braces go it doesn't really matter. If I was doing it, I'd leave the doors off and take a lot of good measurments from multiple points on both sides and square everything up the best you can and brace it accordingly.... If you install the braces out of the way of the doors, then you can mount them after you tack it all together to be sure everything lines up....What you are after is a straight line between the door and the 1/4 and along the rocker panel. Take your time ligning up the doors. It is not an easy thing and could take you all day to get one side done, but all of the time spent will be worth it in the end...

The other thing you need to do is figure out how the water got in the car and caused the problems....A common problem in Mustangs is the cowl...Here is a picture of what they normally look like. This picture is after the upper section was removed:



If you dont stop the water leaks it will eventually rust out again.
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Old 04-19-2007, 03:42 AM   #17
dvdrose18
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I think the cowl is fine, or not too bad, because I didn't see any leaves in it, and when I poured a gallon of water in each side, none came in the car, so I think the water may have come from a poorly sealing or torn top, as the original owner had the top replaced. I know my brothers looked like that, but I think mine might be ok.
I already have the air chisel, and a bunch of cheep Harbor Freight spot weld cutters.
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Old 03-26-2008, 05:31 AM   #18
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well the car has set for almost a year and as it gets warmer I can't wait to start working on it. Here is my plan of action.
1. Since I am working in a tent in the back yard, I want to build something like a floor to work off of(unless my brother moves out and takes his car, then I get the garage ) I am figuring run 2 4x4's for 16 feet, approximately under the tires. on top of this I would run 2x4's or 2x6's on end crosswise to build a floor. Then there would be 2x6's or 2x8's parallel to the 4x4's for the tires to run on, and later for a jig to rest on.
2. I plan on building a jig similar to this. one set of supports to the bumper brackets, one set just behind the front shock towers under the frame rail, and one set to where each of the rear spring shackles attach to the rear frame.


3. remove engine, transmission, doors, fenders, convertible top, suspension, etc.
4. get car onto jig, and put braces across the doors
5. replace rocker panels and torque boxes
6. replace front frame rail extensions under the floors
7. replace the floors
8. repair rear frame rail
9. repair engine bay
10. repair rear wheel wells
11. reinstall suspension and drive train
12. repair/replace fenders, doors, etc.
13. final cosmetics and assembly.
14. take it for a spin
15. wrap it around a tree
16. wake up in ER

Estimated cost: $18,000 to $20,000 plus hospital bills
ETA: Fall 2015

any opinions?
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Old 03-27-2008, 04:09 AM   #19
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That seems reasonable... Just be sure you hold everything plumb, square, perpendicular, parallel, etc...... otherwise final fit of the panels will be way off.

When you write it all out it makes it sound easy... which it is if you take it step by step and take your time. Your budget and time frame also sound like you have thought it out.

We have done lots of Mustangs and have a lot of pictures of replacing various items if it would help.... Due to the link posting restrictions I will not post a link, but feel free to email or PM if you want to see any.... We actually just finished the rust repair on a 68 Convertible that needed many of the things yours needs.
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Old 12-02-2008, 10:01 PM   #20
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Well, a little update as to what is happening...
Shortly after posting the last update, I got another job, so now I am working per diem as a nurse, maintain 8 lawns in the neighborhood, work part time at a local mom and pop shop, and go to school full time, so as you can imagine, life is busy, so the car has, for the most part, been sitting untouched. Before the semester started, I removed the front: bumper, bumper supports, valance, parking lights, headlights, and grille and valance.
Since my brother finally moved his car and most of his parts to his house, I will be moving into the garage soon (before it snows!), so hopefully over Christmas break I can get some real work done.
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Old 01-06-2009, 06:35 PM   #21
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i wish you the best of luck and really you dont have it to bad ya its a mountain of work but i have seen cars from the 90's with more rust than metal just like a few of us have said take it slow and in ... depending on how much time ya got you will look back and well feel good haha but other than that floor bits and such just make sure to save as much as you can never know how hard it can be to find a part...

well best of luck
i look forward to seeing the progress



btw when ya wrap it around a tree can i have it?
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Old 02-27-2009, 09:10 PM   #22
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A little update:
Got her in the garage in early December, so I have been able to get some work done. Conv. top is off, fenders and hood are off, radiator is out, exhaust has been removed, working on taking the glass out.
Got a cart for the engine to go on, so once I can make arrangements to borrow an engine hoist, and I get a free weekend, the engine and trans will be pulled out.
There has been a slight change in plans: So far it looks like I won't be building a jig, but rather I'm leaning toward using an assortment of jacks and stands to hold things in shape while I work on the rockers and frame. And it looks like most of the suspenssion will be staying in for ease of menuverability. As you can see, there isn't much room in the garage, so I will need to be able to roll it out to the driveway.
Picture from shortly after I got it in the garage:
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Old 02-28-2009, 02:52 AM   #23
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sounds like things are moving in the right direction. And jack stand will work great to hold things in place while you work. On convertible we typically use 8: 2 at the very front under the frame rails, 2 near the torque boxes under the front frame rail, 2 at the rear torque box near where the leaf springs mount, and the last two at the rear under the frame rails.... It will be just fine as long as you take your time jacking it up. Only go a little at the time, do not jack the front all the way up and then jack the back all the way up. Do it in about 3-4 stages. If that makes sense.

Good luck and remember to take your time. In the end you will be glad you did.
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Old 06-18-2009, 07:49 AM   #24
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Engine, trans, and drive shaft came out Tuesday without any problems at all. In fact it went MUCH smoother than I had feared. Noted a few more things that will need to be replaced. The front springs have all but worn through the upper control arms, and the clutch is shot.
Time to assemble a shopping list so I can finally get started on some of the body work.
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Old 06-21-2009, 03:31 AM   #25
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If the front spring are bad you make want to take a little time and decide if you want to upgrade the front suspension. If not at least replace all of the bushing. The easiest way to do this is to buy complete new upper and lower control arm which come with new ball joints and bushing installed.
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Old 08-07-2009, 06:23 AM   #26
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well the plans have changed again.
After thinking things through again, it appears as though I will be building a body cart after all. Dad doesn't want me welding in the garage if I can avoid it, due to the fire hazard. Aside from that, there isn't so much room to maneuver large parts around (as you can see in the above picture). Also the driveway isn't in good condition and a little short on space (4 cars, 5 when my brother is home) so I don't want to leave the car in the driveway while I work on it. Also decided it wasn't a good idea to leave the car on its own wheels, because it would be to easy for things to shift out of proper alignment, especially when moving over the uneven driveway.
That being said, all of the suspension is out. Quite a fight to get the rear springs out, ended up taking a sawzall to the front bolts to get it free. the steering came out all to easy, basically fell out, more parts to add to the shopping list...
Now the problem is building a cart to spec, so it will hold the car squarer than it is now, and not get in the way when I replace the inner and center rocker panels, front torque boxes, floors, floor reinforcement pan, etc.
Well, most of the disassembling is finished, time to start fixing some things...

Decided this post needed a picture: My brothers new ride, it's in our blood:
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Old 08-07-2009, 11:39 PM   #27
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What you describe pretty much sums up most restoration projects: Full of challenges and new directions. If you keep the motivation up it helps things move more smoothly. Good luck!
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Old 01-30-2010, 12:33 AM   #28
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Answering the Hobo's call for more activity, just without posting nonsense.
Work in progress for the cart. Being constructed from 3X3X3/8 inch "L" beams that my dad was able to acquire. I was hoping to get it finished over winter break, but as you know from my other post, winter break didn't go exactly as planned. While I was wating for the Taurus to come out of the shop, I was able to get the plans finalized, all the pieces cut out, and some of the welding done. If I get a nice weekend, I should be able to get all the welding done and the necessary holes drilled. Then it is just a matter of getting the car off the jackstands and onto the cart. Make clicky for larger.

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Old 05-14-2010, 11:22 PM   #29
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Had to make an assembly in Pro E for school, so I drew up plans for the cart. Enjoy!

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Old 05-18-2010, 06:47 PM   #30
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Thats a pretty nice simple design you got there, what kind of materials are you going to use?
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