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Old 08-15-2007, 02:58 PM   #31
ateymura
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wildestkabs
But if I change that "gray plug", that means I would have changed the entire ignition coil/power transistor assembly, and if that indeed was the problem, then it should not happen again, regardless of whether it was a power transistor or an ignition coil problem. Is that correct?

You might have just hit the nail on the head. That is exactly what I am beginning to think that even though the vehicle was stalling, the check engine light was on, and the codes which were pulled up were fixed, that might still have NOTHING to with the core issue - the stalling itself which might be totally unrelated to the codes and their correction.

One more question - Would a new power transistor/ignition coil not face the same issue of overheating? Is there some part within the power transistor/ignition coil which is defective, which is causing it to heat up, or is it the whole assembly which is defective, which is why it is heating up?

can you just let it run for a while (30 minutes or so) on your driveway? does it stall if you do that?
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Old 08-15-2007, 04:31 PM   #32
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STOP THE MADNESS!!!

To the OP. Please, do yourself a favor. Don't waste anymore of your time listening to this "ateymura" individual. It's apparent from his "advice" in this thread (and others) that he has absolutely no knowledge of automotive repair or experience in the procedures that he's talking about. Every piece of "information" he's given you has been pulled out of his ass or Googled.

By my rough accounting, which is probably incomplete, according to this genius your problem "has to be" or "is probably" the alternator belt, the battery, the alternator, fuel injectors, a cracked distributor cap, the MAF sensor, the entire distributor, plug wires and the power transistor/ignition coil. Whew, replace three more parts and you'll have an entire new car. Do you see a pattern of ignorance yet?

Furthermore, he thinks that by going to Autozone you get some kind of a diagnostic (you don't). Let's not forget he didn't know how to check for spark if the engine wouldn't start... Until half an hour later, about the time it would take to Google it, when he supplied you with partially correct directions. Then of course he taught us all that performing an ohms check is the same thing as a "component cooler test". I've been repairing cars professionally for over 30 years and never knew that. And then, the fall back for everyclueless jerk who is running out of parts to throw at your car, " electrical problems are always tricky". Yeah, especially when you don't have a clue what you're doing. If after that brief summary, you can't see that this moron is leading you down a path of parts shottgunning, you're as bad as him. And while I'm at it, fire your "mechanic". There is a proper way to diagnose a driveability concern such as yours and allowing you to call the shots isn't it. Bring a part to my shop and tell me to install it and I'll show you the door.

So where does that leave us? Well, I for one will admit that this thread is so entirely convoluted that I can't make heads nor tails of it at this point. I'm not sure what has/has not been done to your car or where it stands at this point. Whatever you do, you need to go back to fundamentals to fix the problem. I have a strong hunch what the problem and am also 99% certain of which sub-system. But I'll keep that to myself for now, at least until I see a change in how this is being handled.

If you want real help, I'll do what I can. If you want to keep f*cking a monkey, keep going the way you have, t-bax's advice excepted. Have a nice day.
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Old 08-15-2007, 05:18 PM   #33
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I had a problem similar to this. I found that the car stalled when I turned on the a/c, which led me to find that my compressor was seizing. Does your car hiccup when you turn your a/c on? Please stop buying parts.
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Old 08-15-2007, 07:10 PM   #34
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Originally Posted by vwhobo
If you want real help, I'll do what I can.

All I want is a resolution to my issue. You said you could help. Can I re-describe the whole issue to you?

I will be as detailed as I can. Please help!

Last edited by wildestkabs : 08-15-2007 at 07:16 PM.
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Old 08-15-2007, 07:16 PM   #35
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I had a problem similar to this. I found that the car stalled when I turned on the a/c, which led me to find that my compressor was seizing. Does your car hiccup when you turn your a/c on? Please stop buying parts.

No, my a/c does not hiccup. However, the engine does run a little rough and the a/c intermittently turns off and on. There will be a period when it will be cooling and then it will start throwing hot air. So I am wondering whether this is an ECM issue.

Anyway, this was happening earlier, after which I took the vehicle to an auto-electrician (to look at the stalling issue). He did some stuff, which took care of the a/c but not the stalling problem. However, now after my mechanic has worked on this car a little bit, the stalling problem has still not been solved but the a/c problem has resurfaced.
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Old 08-15-2007, 07:56 PM   #36
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wildestkabs
All I want is a resolution to my issue. You said you could help. Can I re-describe the whole issue to you?

I will be as detailed as I can. Please help!
Resolution to your issue cannot be guaranteed online. A person can only do so much without actually putting their hands on the car. If you would like to re-describe your situation, chronologically and in detail, I will be happy to see what we can come up with.
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Old 08-15-2007, 08:25 PM   #37
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I will start by saying bravo hobo you never fail being a narcisist ass hole...
keep it going

yes its true I do not have formal education in automotive repair.. but I do have experience.. no i do not pricatice it for living...

the main difference between me and you hobo .. I am not an asshole.

Quote:
Originally Posted by vwhobo

By my rough accounting, which is probably incomplete, according to this genius your problem "has to be" or "is probably" the alternator belt, the battery, the alternator, fuel injectors, a cracked distributor cap, the MAF sensor, the entire distributor, plug wires and the power transistor/ignition coil. Whew, replace three more parts and you'll have an entire new car. Do you see a pattern of ignorance yet?

If you didn't run around the threads looking for someone to bash or bad mouth.. but actually read what had been written you would see that I have never told this guy to change any part.. be it battery, alternator, injectors, distributor cap the MAF sensor, or the camshaft position sensor or the distributor itself...
YES I told him to check the battery and the alternator belt tension because those tests cost him nothing and they are really simple to perform.. and if he doesn't know how to do it.. they can be tested for free at almost any autoprats store

Quote:
Originally Posted by vwhobo
Furthermore, he thinks that by going to Autozone you get some kind of a diagnostic (you don't).

No going to auto-zone isn't always helpful.. but it never hurts.. where a mechanic like yourself would charge him $40-90 just to read the error codes off of the computer the autozone will do it for free..

Quote:
Originally Posted by vwhobo
Let's not forget he didn't know how to check for spark if the engine wouldn't start... Until half an hour later, about the time it would take to Google it, when he supplied you with partially correct directions.

once again you stupid moron..
I do and always did know how to check for no spark when the car doesn't start
if you ACTUALLY READ MY POSTS you will see that I didn't know and still don't know
how to check for no spark without cranking the engine


Quote:
Originally Posted by vwhobo
Then of course he taught us all that performing an ohms check is the same thing as a "component cooler test". I've been repairing cars professionally for over 30 years and never knew that.

once again hobo you are stupid moron who doesn't read the posts fully
I didnt say they are the same thing.. I said they are different ways to test an electrical part
and yes even if it comes as a shock to you.. there are people who know things that you never heard of.. and even more hobo I KNOW FAR MORE MANY THINGS THAT YOU HOBO HAVE NO FREAKING CLUE ABOUT... you been fixing cars for 30 years???? wow IMPRESSIVE... huge achievement it is

Quote:
Originally Posted by vwhobo
And then, the fall back for everyclueless jerk who is running out of parts to throw at your car, " electrical problems are always tricky". Yeah, especially when you don't have a clue what you're doing. If after that brief summary, you can't see that this moron is leading you down a path of parts shottgunning, you're as bad as him.

once again you stupid moron who doesn't fully read the posts.. I never told him to change any part.. just told him to check things.. but didnt tell him to change anything.. it was a mechanic much like yourself.... who told him to change the distributor.. and all the other parts...

Quote:
Originally Posted by vwhobo
So where does that leave us?

where does it leave us? it leaves u at the same place as always .. you just love to be a self centered SOB.. any normal cultured person would just state his opinion to what needs to be done without being an ass..

I have a question for you HOBO or HOMO or whatever you are ... why so much anger?
were you molested as a child by a gay/ped stepfather????????

and I will be laughing so hard in the end .. when it turns out to be the power transistor

so I ask you wildestkabs.. please do post when you find the real reason for your car's stalling

Last edited by ateymura : 08-15-2007 at 08:34 PM.
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Old 08-15-2007, 08:38 PM   #38
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ateymura
...once again you stupid moron..
I do and always did know how to check for no spark when the car doesn't start
if you ACTUALLY READ MY POSTS you will see that I didn't know and still don't know
how to check for no spark without cranking the engine...
Quote:
Originally Posted by ateymura
just for self education.. how do you check for no spark without re-starting?
Quote:
Originally Posted by ateymura
i got that.. it's just you said check for spark.. and then you said don't re-start... i wasn't sure how to check for spark without restarting.
Are you finished now dipsh*t?

I rest my case.
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Old 08-15-2007, 08:45 PM   #39
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Originally Posted by wildestkabs
However, now after my mechanic has worked on this car a little bit, the stalling problem has still not been solved but the a/c problem has resurfaced.

When you finish with your mechanic don't forget to go to the doctor...because you're gettin' raped.

I don't know what your problem is, but here are things that has caused my cars to suddenly stall.

-Seizing a/c compressor.
-Faulty terminal wire.
-Seizing power steering pump.
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Old 08-15-2007, 08:52 PM   #40
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Quote:
Originally Posted by vwhobo
Are you finished now dipsh*t?

I rest my case.


those last two quotes of mine that you just posted are sarcasm you moron.. but no i do not expect you to know what it is...

restarting engine = cranking engine
so yes I do not know how to check for no spark without cranking the engine...
not unless you turn over the camshaft by hand and use a timing light.. but the reason t-bax was asking wildestkabs to not restart the car is because he wanted to check for a faulty fuel pump.. but once you open the ignition the fuel pump comes on.. so I couldn't see what he was getting at when he said check for spark and do not re-start in the same sentence...

and yes I do know things that you have no clue about.. and i pitty you because the only way you can feel good about urself is throwing dirt at others.. that's a sad way to exist if anyone asks me

you might intimidate some kids on here.. but it wont work with me so go f** urself

Last edited by ateymura : 08-15-2007 at 09:09 PM.
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Old 08-15-2007, 08:56 PM   #41
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ateymura
those last to quotes of mine that you just posted are sarcasm you moron.. but no i do not expect you to know what it is...

restarting engine = cranking engine
so yes I do not know how to check for no spark without cranking the engine...
not unless you turn over the camshaft by hand and use a timing light.. but the reason t-bax was asking wildestkabs to not restart the car is because he wanted to check for a faulty fuel pump.. but once you open the ignition the fuel pump comes on.. so I couldn't see what he was getting at when he said check for spark and do not re-start in the same sentence...

and yes I do know things that you have no clue about.. and i pitty you because you the only way you can feel good about urself is throwing dirt at others.. that's a sad way to exist if anyone asks me
Blah, blah, blah, blah, bullsh*t. You don't have a clue about repairing cars, only what you can find in a Google search, and your idea of "helping" is anything but. The best thing you could do to help everyone is to just STFU. Can I make it any clearer?
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Old 08-15-2007, 08:59 PM   #42
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Blah, blah, blah, blah, bullsh*t. You don't have a clue about repairing cars, only what you can find in a Google search, and your idea of "helping" is anything but. The best thing you could do to help everyone is to just STFU. Can I make it any clearer?

hey d**k face did you go limp?????? couldn't come up with a decent come back??
If you think I have nothing else but to google all day long you are even more stupid than I thought

Last edited by ateymura : 08-15-2007 at 09:43 PM.
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Old 08-15-2007, 09:24 PM   #43
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If you would like to re-describe your situation, chronologically and in detail, I will be happy to see what we can come up with.

Thanks a lot. Here we go.

Sometime around February of this year, I bought a 1995 Nissan Altima SE automatic. I bought it because my lovely trouble-free 1996 Nissan Altima had been totalled as I had gotten in an accident. But since my experience had been so awesome with that car, I decided to continue with the Altima, instead of looking at a different car.

Anyway, so when I bought this one, it already had the check engine light on. I could make out that it was in a not so good condition and had not been maintained very well. Anyway, so I started using the vehicle and it drove fine for the first few months (the check engine light was still on, maybe one of the biggest mistakes that I might have made, but that is another story). After the first few months, it started to feel a little underpowered and would require greater effort to accelerate. As time passed by, it got more and more sluggish, to the point, where it would take ages to reach 60 mph - but it was still driving.

2-3 months back, it happened for the first time - it stalled. Here is how the stalling happens. After this, I will cover what the mechanics have done. The vehicle is moving, all of a sudden, the tacho drops to zero (its an abrupt and not a gradual drop), the engine shuts off, the lights come on and the steering wheel locks up. This car does not have a radio, but the other electricals work just fine. If I am lucky, then sometimes I will be able to crank the vehicle right back, sometimes it will take 5-10 minutes, sometimes 30-40, and then I have had days when it did not start back on at all. Once it stalls, there is no way of knowing when it will be before I can start it back on, as there is no definite pattern. The other thing that I have noticed is that if I have reached my destination, or if I have to stop by a place real quick (like to get a pack of cigarettes from Circle k), and if I shut off the vehicle, come back in 2 minutes, and try and start it back up, it won't start, so I have to leave it on. This was happening before the mechanic did what I have described below. I don't know whether this would happen now or not, but I am not willing to take the chance to find out.

Now - here is what the mechanics have done. One of them was not able to figure out what the issue was, so he recommended me to an auto electrician. I left the vehicle with the auto electrician, but it did not stall while he had it, so he was not able to diagnose the issue. He did some electrical work on it, mostly throttle wiring if I remember correctly, and the check engine light disappeared. The vehicle drove fine for 2 days, till I took it out one night, when the headlight started to dim a little bit while I was stopped at a traffic light. When the light turned green, I took a left and it stalled. I was able to start it back up after some effort, but the check engine light came back on.

Since the light had dimmed, I thought it might be an alternator issue so I got the alternator and the battery checked with Autozone sometime back and they said that both were fine.

Now, I take my vehicle to this new mechanic (the one who is working on it right now), he runs the scanner, turns out the code is for a camshaft position sensor and a knock sensor. So we replace the distributor (a rebuilt one, the caps and rotor are still the same). Next day, he recommends working on the fuel system as well. At this point in time, I am thinking that this might be a fuel related issue, even if it is not, I still need to get this vehicle fully fixed, so I give him the green signal, and these are the things that he does.

Removed and replaced fuel filter.
Throttle body service.
Changed Air filter.
Remove and install new spark plugs.
Changed transmission fluid.
Change alternator belt.
Change A/C belt
Change idler pulley bearing.
Fuel injection flush.
Transmission flush.
Remove and replaced both serpentine belts.

Obviously, the vehicle drives much better, it feels more powerful and is much more fun to drive.

After getting all of this done, I took the vehicle back home, it drove great for 2 days, and then boom - stalled again. I tried to crank it back up, it would turn over but not start. After 5 or 6 attempts, I would able to start it back up, the check engine light came back on (which had disappeared after replacing the distributor and getting all of the above done). Anyway, I was able to drive it home without any more events.

I took it to the shop next day, where he ran the scanner which pulled up the MAF sensor. He played around with it a little bit, the check engine light went away and the vehicle from there on drove like a blast - for 50 miles or so, after which the check engine light came back on again (before stalling), and after another 5 miles or so, it stalled again. This was during the night, so it was a little cooler. During my drive back home, it stalled at least 4 times. I was able to start the vehicle after letting it sit for 10 minutes or so, after which it would drive for 5-10 miles before stalling again. The last time that it stalled, it would not even turn over. I tried to turn the (locked) steering wheel a little bit, after which it did turn over and after a few more attempts, it started back up and I got home.

I took the vehicle to the mechanic again yesterday, who by this time was totally confused. He worked on it, for 2-3 hours but was not able to find anything. He said that he needed it for a longer period of time before he could figure out what was wrong. Anyway, so I told him that he can keep it next week for 3 days. So before leaving, he tells me that the check engine light is gone again. Since I have the crankshaft position sensor, I ask him to replace that anyway. I begin the drive back home, the vehicle drives fine on the freeway, I cover around 12 miles or so, and then when I am in the city, it stalls again. I pull over in a parking lot, try to crank it back up, it turns over but does not start. it finally does, I put it in reverse, it stalls again, I try again and it finally starts. I am able to get home. Interestingly, this time the check engine light does NOT come on. This happened yesterday. I drove 15 miles to work this morning around 4:30 am and it drove fine, but I know it will stall sooner rather than later.

One last thing - when I press the gas pedal, the vehicle does increase in speed linearly and gradually, but before it does that, it jerks for a second, and there is something about that jerk (I guess you could say the noise), which inclines me to believe that it is an electrical, rather than a mechanical issue. Also, I am absolutely positive that this "electrical jerking" is related to the stalling. The same part which causes the jerking is what is causing the stalling (at least this is what I think). This jerking is more defined at lower speeds rather than higher and when I have driven the vehicle for a longer distance, rather than shorter. Also, sometimes, when this jerking begins, I can use that to come to the safe conclusion that the vehicle is close to stalling.

I made the mistake of driving this thing with the check engine light on for quite sometime. I don't know whether it contributed to the stalling or not, but there was no stalling for the first few months that I drove it (even with the check engine light on). It started to happen during the last 2 months.

After getting all of things mentioned above done, the vehicle drives much better, but the core issue is still there and has frustrated me more than I can describe

This is it. I have tried to keep it as detailed as I can and tried to provide information on each and every incident. Please feel free to ask any questions if you want to.

And thanks for your help in advance.

Last edited by wildestkabs : 08-15-2007 at 09:39 PM.
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Old 08-15-2007, 09:24 PM   #44
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Guys, guys, guys, could I kindly request you to not fight please? I really need some help.

Thanks.

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Old 08-15-2007, 09:43 PM   #45
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Guys, guys, guys, could I kindly request you to not fight please? I really need some help.

Thanks.

you didn't say anything about the steering wheel before... what do you mean it locks? you cannot turn it at all or it is hard to turn??
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