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Old 08-15-2007, 09:53 PM   #46
wildestkabs
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ateymura
you didn't say anything about the steering wheel before... what do you mean it locks? you cannot turn it at all or it is hard to turn??

I can turn it but it becomes very heavy and is hard to turn. I am assuming that is because it is a power assisted steering and loses that "power", once the vehicle has stalled. However, if I can start the car back on, then the steering vehicle also functions properly.
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Old 08-15-2007, 10:02 PM   #47
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wildestkabs
I can turn it but it becomes very heavy and is hard to turn. I am assuming that is because it is a power assisted steering and loses that "power", once the vehicle has stalled. However, if I can start the car back on, then the steering vehicle also functions properly.

ok.. it is due to loosing the power steering assist.. steering wheel lock up is different.. if you take you key out of ignition and try to turn the steering wheel then it will LOCK UP.. and you will not be able to turn the wheel at all.. it's an antitheft thing (not a very effective one).

so is there are chance you can let it run during the day for half an hour or more without driving it?

Last edited by ateymura : 08-15-2007 at 10:06 PM.
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Old 08-15-2007, 10:05 PM   #48
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Have fun with your Altima. If you're going to continue feeding the troll, I don't have time for you. I hope that you finally get tired of being run in circles and actually repair your car.

Have a nice day.
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Old 08-15-2007, 10:08 PM   #49
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ateymura
so is there are chance you can let it run during the day for half an hour or more without driving it?

I am on my way back home. If you don't hear from me in 20-30 minutes, that means that the vehicle has stalled again. Let me ask you this before I leave - Would you like me to leave the engine running for 30 minutes, after it has cooled down (get home from work, leave it parked for 4-5 hours and then do it), or do you want me to do it as soon as I get back home (vehicle is still hot)?

I will check your response when I reach home.
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Old 08-15-2007, 10:10 PM   #50
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Originally Posted by vwhobo
Have fun with your Altima. If you're going to continue feeding the troll, I don't have time for you. I hope that you finally get tired of being run in circles and actually repair your car.

Have a nice day.

You know what, I am actually a little amazed at your attitude. I am not trying to discriminate against anyone, I am just looking for help, which ateymura is helping me with and I am open to being helped by anyone.

You mentioned that you wanted to help. I explained everything to you, yet you are somehow insisting that I stop using help from ateymura before I use your help. Why? Why can you not help me independent from ateymura?
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Old 08-15-2007, 10:12 PM   #51
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Originally Posted by vwhobo
Have fun with your Altima. If you're going to continue feeding the troll, I don't have time for you. I hope that you finally get tired of being run in circles and actually repair your car.

Have a nice day.

what's your problem now hobo.. the guy re-stated all the symptoms and all the things that have been changed.. to make it easier for you.. so why don't you quit being childish and help the guy.. by telling him what are the "proper procedures" for diagnising such drivability issue?

Last edited by ateymura : 08-15-2007 at 10:21 PM.
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Old 08-15-2007, 10:20 PM   #52
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Originally Posted by wildestkabs
I am on my way back home. If you don't hear from me in 20-30 minutes, that means that the vehicle has stalled again. Let me ask you this before I leave - Would you like me to leave the engine running for 30 minutes, after it has cooled down (get home from work, leave it parked for 4-5 hours and then do it), or do you want me to do it as soon as I get back home (vehicle is still hot)?

I will check your response when I reach home.

you problem apparently has a come and go nature.. thats why your mechanics are having hard time to pinpoint it.. so to be able to diagnose it someone would have to do it right at the moment when it stalls (i think i have said this before).. so you have a chance of getting it stalled if you leave it running while its hot. I still do think that it is the power transistor.. but I want you to be sure before you go and buy a new one.. once its stalled you would have to try to crank it make sure it doesn't start.. than somehow either cool it or get an multimeter and check it to make sure that its resistance matches the specifications.
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Old 08-15-2007, 10:58 PM   #53
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ateymura
you problem apparently has a come and go nature.. thats why your mechanics are having hard time to pinpoint it.. so to be able to diagnose it someone would have to do it right at the moment when it stalls (i think i have said this before).. so you have a chance of getting it stalled if you leave it running while its hot. I still do think that it is the power transistor.. but I want you to be sure before you go and buy a new one.. once its stalled you would have to try to crank it make sure it doesn't start.. than somehow either cool it or get an multimeter and check it to make sure that its resistance matches the specifications.

I am home, the vehicle did not stall. I haven't gotten the component cooler yet. I am going to get it today and then leave it running for 30 minutes and will give you an update.
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Old 08-16-2007, 02:36 PM   #54
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Originally Posted by wildestkabs
You know what, I am actually a little amazed at your attitude. I am not trying to discriminate against anyone, I am just looking for help, which ateymura is helping me with and I am open to being helped by anyone.

You mentioned that you wanted to help. I explained everything to you, yet you are somehow insisting that I stop using help from ateymura before I use your help. Why? Why can you not help me independent from ateymura?
You know what? I’m actually a little amazed that you just don’t get it. I certainly and in no way owe you an explanation for my actions, but this time, just for you, I'll extend the courtesy of giving one so that you and others know exactly where I stand and why.



I know you have some kind of a job, because you said so in another post. It doesn't matter if you're a brain surgeon, a plumber or a burger flipper at McDonalds. No matter your position in life or your level of education, if you have any self respect, you do your job to the best of your ability. Part of that is knowing who to surround yourself with and who to stay away from in the workplace. Once you identify someone who is all talk and little action, someone who has just enough knowledge to be dangerous, you should be smart enough to steer clear of them. The other side of the coin is if you're a customer, whether as a patient in the hospital, at home getting your toilet fixed or at McD's waiting for a burger, you should expect and demand to be serviced by someone who is well versed or at least competent at their job.

Let's use a hospital for an analogy. Let's say you have some sort of illness that your general practitioner couldn't figure out. The first thing you'd do is focus your attention entirely on the specialist who is trying to help you. You would explain to him in detail the symptoms of your problem and what you have done in the past to make it better to help him to understand what is happening so that he could begin diagnosis. In return, you would expect him to analyze your situation thoroughly and then take a methodical and educated approach to diagnose, isolate and cure your problem. Resolution.

What you would not do, or at least I hope you would not do is allow some monkey, even if he’s wearing a lab coat, carrying a clipboard and has a medical school diploma he bought at Wal-Mart, to interfere by confusing the conversation and suggesting “cures” to you off the top of his head. “It’s your appendix… no, it’s a sinus infection… no, it’s a hang nail on your big toe.” If you cure enough things, eventually by the process of elimination you’ll get well, but it would be time consuming, painful and expensive.



I am an extremely well trained, knowledgeable and experienced automotive technician and diagnostician. I’m not perfect, nobody is, but I have a personal comeback percentage of less than one half of one percent over the last nine years (the length of time that I’ve been actually tracking). That’s one in every 227 cars as of 7/31. In addition to working in my newest little automotive repair shop every day, I also offer sublet diagnostics for other shops and dealerships in the area. They gladly pay me $120-$150 per clock hour to diagnose and isolate faults on their most troublesome vehicles. Those numbers tell me I must be doing something right because those people aren’t all that stupid.

I entered this thread for two reasons. To stop you from being run around the block by some clown that has no idea how to troubleshoot your problem except by guessing at part names he’s read on the internet and to try to give you some help with your car. That however isn’t going to happen now because you made the choice, even after being shown that his “advice” is pure garbage. I don’t have the time, volition or patience to work on helping you while also having to shout over the roar of an idiot. In the real world I wouldn’t have to deal with an ignoramus of his sort…And if I did the bill would just get bigger. I genuinely hope you find resolution to your problem, but don’t expect to find it by following the advice of your monkey in a lab coat who is all talk, little action and knows just enought to be dangerous. Doing it his way will involve simply replacing parts until the car is accidentally repaired, which will be time consuming, painful and expensive.

Good luck and have a nice day.
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Old 08-16-2007, 04:55 PM   #55
ateymura
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Quote:
Originally Posted by vwhobo
....
....
....
I entered this thread for two reasons. To stop you from being run around the block by some clown that has no idea how to troubleshoot your problem except by guessing at part names he’s read on the internet and to try to give you some help with your car. That however isn’t going to happen now because you made the choice, even after being shown that his “advice” is pure garbage. I don’t have the time, volition or patience to work on helping you while also having to shout over the roar of an idiot. In the real world I wouldn’t have to deal with an ignoramus of his sort…And if I did the bill would just get bigger. I genuinely hope you find resolution to your problem, but don’t expect to find it by following the advice of your monkey in a lab coat who is all talk, little action and knows just enought to be dangerous. Doing it his way will involve simply replacing parts until the car is accidentally repaired, which will be time consuming, painful and expensive.

Good luck and have a nice day.

Hobster... you got to take you head out of your behind.. take your pride and stick it back instead of your head and help if you can... you apparently do have loads of free time since you typed up this BS of two pages long. once again not a single part has been changed based on my suggestion. it was a supersmart mechanic like you who had them changed.
and yes just as you said it is very difficult to diagnose a vehicle without actually seeing it. Specially when the person who is telling you whats wrong with it has very little experience with cars.

all I have asked him to check were battery, alternator, alternator belt tension, inspect the distributor cap and test the spark plug wires.. all of this can be completed under 30 minutes. and the last thing that i suggested to test is the ignition coil/power transistor assembly.. and if you think any of this is time consuming, expensive or painful. you are completely wrong.. all it will cost him is 1 hour of his time and maybe $10 bucks.

and all of the above is in NO WAY harmful to the vehicle or in trying to diagnose the issue in hand.

in fact I did tell him that it is unlikely to be the camshaft position sensor.. (and the reasoning behind it was that if the camshaft position sensor is faulty the car is more likely to not start at all than start and die).

an advice to u hobo-man try to be less of an a s s .. you might actually get a satisfaction out of life
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Old 08-17-2007, 12:15 AM   #56
wildestkabs
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A question - Why would a vehicle stall in the morning after being driven for 5-6 miles vs 10+ miles in the afternoon, before it stalls? Does the
power transistor have any connection with the headlights? Will the headlights which are in use cause the power transistor to heat up quicker?

Update coming soon.

Last edited by wildestkabs : 08-17-2007 at 02:03 AM.
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Old 08-17-2007, 11:45 AM   #57
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wildestkabs
A question - Why would a vehicle stall in the morning after being driven for 5-6 miles vs 10+ miles in the afternoon, before it stalls? Does the
power transistor have any connection with the headlights? Will the headlights which are in use cause the power transistor to heat up quicker?

Update coming soon.
Gee whiz. What happened to the post that was here last night about 7:30 that said your monkey is a genius, the car never ran better and the power transmitter was at fault? Remember, vroom vroom, thank you, thank you, thank you, and all that stuff. I do. Logical and repeatable diagnostic procedures beats pointing at parts and guessing they're bad 99.9% of the time. If you shoot into an empty room enough times, eventually you'll hit something. Some people just have to learn the hard way.
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Old 08-17-2007, 01:50 PM   #58
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Gee whiz. What happened to the post that was here last night about 7:30 that said your monkey is a genius, the car never ran better and the power transmitter was at fault? Remember, vroom vroom, thank you, thank you, thank you, and all that stuff. I do. Logical and repeatable diagnostic procedures beats pointing at parts and guessing they're bad 99.9% of the time. If you shoot into an empty room enough times, eventually you'll hit something. Some people just have to learn the hard way.

There is no need to be harsh vwhobo. I have nothing against you. I don't know why you are treating me like this. I am just a guy who is trying to get his vehicle fixed.

As far as why I deleted that post - I deleted it because I thought it might have been fluke and the vehicle would have started anyway without the cooler. Needless to say, it stalled again when I was returning from the UPS store and I emptied the component cooler on the power transistor but it would not start again.

I just need some help.
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Old 08-17-2007, 02:09 PM   #59
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Originally Posted by wildestkabs
There is no need to be harsh vwhobo. I have nothing against you. I don't know why you are treating me like this. I am just a guy who is trying to get his vehicle fixed.

As far as why I deleted that post - I deleted it because I thought it might have been fluke and the vehicle would have started anyway without the cooler. Needless to say, it stalled again when I was returning from the UPS store and I emptied the component cooler on the power transistor but it would not start again.

I just need some help.
Harsh? Hardly. The word is honest. I've been polite and courteous to you in every way. You're just looking for a quick and easy fix instead of taking the time to do it right. Your loss.


P.S. I forgot to mention something earlier, and your trained monkey doesn't know. It's well documented that spraying the "component cooler" onto a good solid state component can cause immediate internal damage due to the rapid temperature change. Think of a hot bucket of water thrown on a frozen windshield. Most of them advertise -65F and your underhood temperature will always be at least 150F. You do the math, and have a nice day.
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Old 08-17-2007, 03:13 PM   #60
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Harsh? Hardly. The word is honest. I've been polite and courteous to you in every way.

Alright, I agree that you have been polite and courteous. Now are you going to be helpful as well?

Quote:
Originally Posted by vwhobo
You're just looking for a quick and easy fix instead of taking the time to do it right. Your loss.

I am not looking for a quick fix. That is wrong. I have already spent $1000 but the issue has still not been resolved. And this is NOT throwing parts at the vehicle. Like I said, a lot of that money spent fixed other issues and improved the drivability and performance but I spent it with the original intention of getting the issue fixed, which, much to my frustration, has not yet happened.


Quote:
Originally Posted by vwhobo
P.S. I forgot to mention something earlier, and your trained monkey doesn't know. It's well documented that spraying the "component cooler" onto a good solid state component can cause immediate internal damage due to the rapid temperature change. Think of a hot bucket of water thrown on a frozen windshield. Most of them advertise -65F and your underhood temperature will always be at least 150F. You do the math, and have a nice day.

You are right. That is basic science. Somehow, I totally forgot about this, maybe because I am extremely frustrated.
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