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Old 08-17-2007, 08:06 PM   #61
ateymura
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wildestkabs
As far as why I deleted that post - I deleted it because I thought it might have been fluke and the vehicle would have started anyway without the cooler. Needless to say, it stalled again when I was returning from the UPS store and I emptied the component cooler on the power transistor but it would not start again.

To make sure that it was not a fluke.. I had suggested to try to start it and make sure that it does not start and only then apply the component cooler.

the fact that the component cooler did not help the second time... might mean that it didn't cool your transistor enoguh or over cooled it.

it stalls in the morning because the gradient of temperatures is larger.. doesn't stall during the day because its been sitting under the sun for a while...

Last edited by ateymura : 08-17-2007 at 08:21 PM.
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Old 08-17-2007, 08:19 PM   #62
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Originally Posted by vwhobo
I forgot to mention something earlier, and your trained monkey doesn't know. It's well documented that spraying the "component cooler" onto a good solid state component can cause immediate internal damage due to the rapid temperature change. Think of a hot bucket of water thrown on a frozen windshield. Most of them advertise -65F and your underhood temperature will always be at least 150F. You do the math, and have a nice day.

first of all I know far more about solid state devices than you would ever imagine... the stuff that you get at radioshak is -27 F after all you might be a car mechanic but I am a physicist

second the teperature gradient that you mentioned doesn't matter much unless you specify the rate at which the temperature drops. The chance of damaging the transistor by spraying it is extrimely remote unless you take the transistor out of its enclousure and spray it dirrectly. which is indicated by the fact that the car wouldn't start at all if there was imidiate internal damage.
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Old 08-17-2007, 08:29 PM   #63
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ateymura
first of all I know far more about solid state devices than you would ever imagine... the stuff that you get at radioshak is -27 F after all you might be a car mechanic but I am a physicist
Sure you are, and I'm Winston Churchill. Aren't most people who are intelligent enough to be a physicist smart enough to spell simple words? That right, I forgot, youíre a trained monkey.

BTW, take a look at this link. Based on the advertised cooling temp, maybe you should brush up on your first grade math also. Some of the numbers are the same, but... Moron.


It's time for you to go home. Your village misses it's idiot.
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Old 08-17-2007, 10:15 PM   #64
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Sure you are, and I'm Winston Churchill. Aren't most people who are intelligent enough to be a physicist smart enough to spell simple words? That right, I forgot, you’re a trained monkey.

you don't stop to amuse me... if you spoke at least the half of the languages that I use to the level that I know english.. you wouldn't ask that question.. sorry i didn't present my professional credentials before signing on to this forum

Quote:
Originally Posted by vwhobo
BTW, take a look at this link. Based on the advertised cooling temp, maybe you should brush up on your first grade math also. Some of the numbers are the same, but... Moron.

by the way I did look at that link and the temperature that is advertized there you will reach only if you cut that can open and pour liquid CO2 onto your part.. but never in gas form. and also mind showing where is it documented that component cooler causes internal damage????????????????

and if you believe the advertizement sooo much why don't you read the part where it says "Clean, safe electronic testing.
A safe, low cost way to cold test electronic components and printed circuit traces. Also great for protecting heat-sensitive components during soldering".?????????????????????????? what do you really think? where is it hoter under your hood? or at the tip of a soldering gun???

Last edited by ateymura : 08-17-2007 at 10:20 PM.
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Old 08-17-2007, 10:49 PM   #65
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Originally Posted by tbaxleyjr
What in this world does squirting liquid CO2 or liquid N2 on a component have to do with determining what's wrong with the Altima?

I'm glad you asked, I wanted to know too.
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Old 08-17-2007, 10:55 PM   #66
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Originally Posted by tbaxleyjr
You may be a physicist and strong in math and theory but I do have a good question - What in this world does squirting liquid CO2 or liquid N2 on a component have to do with determining what's wrong with the Altima?


simple.. due to deffect small crack or something else.. when an electrical part heats up the electrical contact is severed or it just changes its resistance and the part stops working at all or in the way it should.. when it is left alone for a while.. the contact is restored and it is operational till the next time it reaches the critical temperature..
so if you want to know if the suspect part is faulty you artifitially cool it.. if it starts working due to decrease of temperature.. you have found what needs to be fixed

Last edited by ateymura : 08-17-2007 at 11:07 PM.
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Old 08-17-2007, 11:21 PM   #67
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Originally Posted by tbaxleyjr
This dude still needs to determine if his issue is ignition system related or fuel system related

I agree. My mechanic is going to keep the car for 3 days (yeah, I still trust him, he is honest). Hopefully, he should be able to get the issue figured and fixed.

Today, while returning from work, the rpm needle abruptly dropped to zero and then immediately shot right back to what it was. This happened within a fraction of a second. I am thinking that if this were the case of a part overheating, then the rpm would not have shot back up. I mean, if a part overheats, then it overheats and if can cause the vehicle to stall, then the vehicle will stall (and remain stalled). How can the rpm needle immediately move back to normal? Did the overheated part cool down suddenly (in a fraction of a second)? Not likely.

Once again, I am not going to throw any parts at the vehicle (never done that, other than the component cooler), but just an observation.

Another observation - if this were an overheating issue, then why have there been some cases when I have been able to start the vehicle in 2-3 cranks?
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Old 08-17-2007, 11:23 PM   #68
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Originally Posted by ateymura
To make sure that it was not a fluke.. I had suggested to try to start it and make sure that it does not start and only then apply the component cooler.

I did that. It did not start.
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Old 08-17-2007, 11:27 PM   #69
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By the way, like I had mentioned before, the check engine light never came back on, even after the vehicle stalled multiple times during the last few days.

However, over the last few days, I have been hearing a noise, something like "phush", coming from the back of the car, somewhere around the trunk area. It happens once in a while. Not that much, but I never heard it before.
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Old 08-17-2007, 11:35 PM   #70
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Originally Posted by ateymura
simple.. due to deffect small crack or something else.. when an electrical part heats up the electrical contact is severed or it just changes its resistance and the part stops working at all or in the way it should.. when it is left alone for a while.. the contact is restored and it is operational till the next time it reaches the critical temperature..
so if you want to know if the suspect part is faulty you artifitially cool it.. if it starts working due to decrease of temperature.. you have found what needs to be fixed

That doesn't seem efficient at all...especially considering that his car sometimes starts up right after stalling without your test. False positive!
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Old 08-18-2007, 03:39 PM   #71
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Originally Posted by tbaxleyjr
good unless the rate of change in temperature over-stresses the component and causes it to break

This dude still needs to determine if his issue is ignition system related or fuel system related
T-Bax, I'll give you a tip. Based entirely and solely upon the description of symptoms, and it has been said more than once... When the engine stalls the tachometer needle drops immediately to zero. The last time it occurred it dropped to zero, came right back up and the car went merrily on it's way. That alone almost certainly rules out the entire fuel system along with the secondary ignition system and any mechanical fault.





For the lab coat wearing monkeys out there, that means the injectors, plug wires, MAF sensor and probably a few more items (I forgot the shopping list) you guessed at are essentially ruled out. And since I know you're going to type your totally unnecessary yet predictably ignorant response to this paragraph, riddle me this, moron. What do you think the chances of all four plug wires or all four fuel injectors packing up intermittently and yet simultaneously is? Rounded to the nearest ten thousandth of a percent, I'd say about zero. And what do you think the odds are that this gentlemanís Altima would be the only one to have an intermittently failing MAF along with a faulty ECM that didnít revert to the pre-programmed MAF fail safe mode allowing the engine to continue running up to about 2500 rpm? That is a rhetorical (and very long) question. Are you ready to go back to hiding under your rock yet?

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Old 08-18-2007, 08:40 PM   #72
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T-Bax, I'll give you a tip. Based entirely and solely upon the description of symptoms, and it has been said more than once... When the engine stalls the tachometer needle drops immediately to zero. The last time it occurred it dropped to zero, came right back up and the car went merrily on it's way. That alone almost certainly rules out the entire fuel system along with the secondary ignition system and any mechanical fault.

Thank you. I get this feeling that this is the farthest you will ever go as far as helping me is concerned.

Thanks, nonetheless.
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Old 08-19-2007, 12:20 AM   #73
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VW, not being sarcastic or anything but wanted to thank you as well, for the tip.

It seems like I might have a place to start from. But I am still pretty much clueless. Problem is, mechanic seems to be clueless as well. That might be because he has not had the vehicle for long but I might be wrong.

We will see.
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Old 08-20-2007, 12:31 AM   #74
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I had to go to supercuts, which is like a mile away from my house. I start the car and the rpm needle "falls down" abruptly by half an inch and then moves back up. The car then drives without any issues to the hair salon. I turn off the ignition, go inside and after 30 minutes, I come outside, get in my car and it won't start. It did start like 3 times, but the rpm needle fell right back and it shut off. Finally, after 45 minutes or so, it started back up and I was able to drive back home.

I have no clue what is happening. As far as today's encounter is concerned, the only information that I can provide is that I live in Arizona and the temperature right now is 110F.

Last edited by wildestkabs : 08-20-2007 at 01:48 AM.
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Old 08-21-2007, 11:04 PM   #75
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Originally Posted by tbaxleyjr
Based on common sense, VWHobo's input and the good description of what's going on, we definitely aren't looking @ a fuel system issue

The ECM gets its engine speed signal from the crankshaft position sensor. It receives a reference voltage from the ECM (more than likely 5V from terminal 50)

When VW was giving the hint, he waqs looking @ the engine speed the Altima turns in high (OD) @ 40-45 mph vs 60 mph.

If this issue is truly speed specific, someone needs to look @ this with a good scan tool where some good freeze frame data can be obtained instead of a code reader.

Could be as simple as a crankshaft sensor or more complicated hence the good diagnosis is crucial in this case.

Hi tbax, I don't know whether the issue is speed specific as the car has stalled at different speeds. Yesterday, while I was taking it to the mechanic, it stalled for the first time at a traffic light (speed was zero). I cranked and it started back up immediately. Then it stalled again, while I was slowing down at another traffic light. Started right back up again. The stalling has NEVER happened before, either at zero, or when I was slowing down. Then I got on the freeway and drove for 10-15 miles and it did not stall.

I just got a call from the mechanic who says that the distributor that they had replaced had gone bad so they have replaced it for free (obviously). He says he has driven it for around 100 miles (at different speeds) or so and has not faced any stalling issues. He is confident it was the replaced distributor which had gone bad.

He also mentioned lack of power on the freeway and attributed that to a bad catalytic converter (he did mention that it was unrelated to the stalling), so I recommended him to go ahead and get it replaced.

I am really hoping this should be the end of this issue.

Last edited by wildestkabs : 08-21-2007 at 11:29 PM.
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