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Old 02-21-2008, 07:13 PM   #1
TanyasMkIISupra
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Old School Supra Build

Hi all! I'm sure very few of you will remember me from a few years back, but I'm a female supraholic. I'm on my 9th Supra since 2001 (all have been second generation 1982-86).

The car this thread is about I got back in September for FREE.

How it looked when I 1st saw it:




All dusty and nasty, it had sat under a car tarp for a year or more. Apparently the owners had bought the car and it had no reverse (automatic). They didn't have the time to fix it and then just parked it. Said it wouldn't start, blah blah blah.

So I get the paperwork and we tow her home (after changing the numerous flat tires)...


All I had to do was put a good battery in it, and have some patience, and she started after a few times cranking. It even moved forward (didn't like going in reverse though, like they said)


So I got the car all cleaned up, installed my custom clear turn signals and Euro/JDM rear vents.






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Old 02-21-2008, 07:29 PM   #2
BavarianWheels
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Well...welcome back.

It looks great...
.
.
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Old 02-21-2008, 07:30 PM   #3
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So on to the engine build.

The engine bay shortly after I got the car, started removing stuff to replace w/ goodies:


How it looks right now:



Current mods:
RC ceramic coated X over pipe, RC CAI, NGK plug wires, TRUST header, RC merge collector, 2.5" HKS midpipe, RC tailpipe, Magnaflow muffler



So the engine has 187,000+ miles and is burning oil pretty good now after a few months of me flogging the hell out of it. I'm sure the fact it sat for a year or so doesn't help. So while the engine still runs kickass, it's time for it to come out.

My plan is to remove the 2.8 liter DOHC 5MGE and replace it with the JDM only 3.0 liter DOHC 6MGE.

I somehow managed to find this very rare 6M block on craigslist for $50. Got it home, tore what was left of it apart only to find that the rod bearings on the #1 con rod were NOT THERE. Dropped the block, crank, rods off at the machine shop, only to be told the crank and rods were screwed beyond repair.

So my BF gave me his extra 6M crankshaft, and I scored a set of free 7MGE connecting rods

note: for those who don't know, the 6MGE engine is basically a MK3 Supras' 7MGE with the MKII Supras' 12 valve cylinder head. It was only available in Japan in the 86-88 Toyota Crowns and Soarers.

Painted and prepped intake manifold and other misc. parts:




295cc injectors I'll be using at a later point (stock injectors are 182cc)


Connecting rods, .030" over pistons, resurfaced flywheel (yep, she's going to get a 5spd swap while I'm at it) and tanked cylinder head w/ valve job and milled 5 thousandths


The whole rotating assembly is balanced as well. One of the rods was 15 grams lighter than the rest, so the others had to be machined down to match.


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Old 02-21-2008, 07:36 PM   #4
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6M crankshaft all polished/balanced and pretty




Bored out & cleaned block came home yesterday.


I'm definitely repainting the block, I'm not a fan of black blocks. I like to see where my oil leaks are, LOL



So that is it for now. The build is somewhat stalled as I had to shell out big dollars to the machine shop yesterday.

I still need to get rod/main bearings, thrust washers, a pilot bearing, clutch slave cylinder & soft line, clutch master cylinder/lines, clutch/brake pedal... and I think that's about it. I think I have everything else.
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Old 02-21-2008, 10:21 PM   #5
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I remember you...I think you were friends with thunderbird1100?

Wow, that's a lot of work. Looks great, though .
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Old 02-21-2008, 11:48 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chris_knows
I remember you...I think you were friends with thunderbird1100?

Wow, that's a lot of work. Looks great, though .


Yep, we knew each other off of AOL.

Thanks!


And before anyone asks, my goal is between 170-180whp when the engine is broke in. That's w/ stock timing and what not. I'd like to tune it out as far as possible. Anything over 200whp without buying cams would be kickass.

stock 5MGE output is 161hp, 132hp at the wheels... the highest hp 5M that I know about is 189whp and that was with high comp pistons and HKS cams (unknown grind)

The hp output of the 6MGE is really unknown. Most sites say 190-195hp at the crank. Most of the 6MGE dynos I've seen were over 150whp, but those are usually modified w/ intake and exhaust so... it's really hard to say.
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Old 02-22-2008, 06:12 AM   #7
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Hmm, a girl getting a free Supra. I could make a joke asking how you got it, but I think the C-F crowd is a little above that.

Welcome back, although I think you were gone by the time I signed up for this place.
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Old 02-22-2008, 08:04 AM   #8
TanyasMkIISupra
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Haha. This is actually my 4th free Supra, 3rd freebie that has run.

I'm a Supra slut fo life, but not in the "i give my poon away for cars" type of way. Maybe a quick flash of the titas.....



I kid, I kid
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Old 02-22-2008, 08:07 AM   #9
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lmao i remember you, the supra looks amazing and it is going to be an absolute dream to drive, what are you going to do with the drivetrain and suspension?
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Old 02-22-2008, 05:19 PM   #10
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Well she's getting a 5 speed swap bc the auto tranny is absolutely crap.

The suspension was already modified at some point, very ghetto. They heated the springs to lower the car. It is quite low but I want to lower it the correct way, but it'll be a long time before I am able to afford all that now
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Old 02-23-2008, 06:32 PM   #11
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Since you are trying to squeeze out all the hp to make the 200hp mark without cams, you should have knife edged the crank, and had the manifold and head proffesionally ported.

From what you said I'd bet that'd get you 200whp.

Man I really like this build. I had never even seen one of those supras until just now. I love fun obscure cars that you never see where there isnt much of an aftermarket and most of the big stuff you do hasnt been done much before.
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Old 02-24-2008, 01:05 AM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Enthusiast
Since you are trying to squeeze out all the hp to make the 200hp mark without cams, you should have knife edged the crank, and had the manifold and head proffesionally ported.


I thought about having the crank knife edged right after everything got done, but realize I am already on a very limited budget w/ this build anyway so...

Not going to port anything. My original plan, years ago, was of course to port the head and intake manifold, but have been reading many articles on how too large of ports can be bad. The smaller the port the more velocity the air = more power. Have seen numerous articles on using epoxy filler to make head ports smaller which have increased power pretty good. I'm just not ready to try that for myself just yet.

I may do cams eventually, but I don't like regrinds, I want brand new billets. And to have the grind that I want done on new billets will cost me around $800, which again, I don't have.

I want to play around w/ cam timing to see what I can get out of the stockers first.
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Old 02-24-2008, 04:27 AM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TanyasMkIISupra
I thought about having the crank knife edged right after everything got done, but realize I am already on a very limited budget w/ this build anyway so...

Not going to port anything. My original plan, years ago, was of course to port the head and intake manifold, but have been reading many articles on how too large of ports can be bad. The smaller the port the more velocity the air = more power. Have seen numerous articles on using epoxy filler to make head ports smaller which have increased power pretty good. I'm just not ready to try that for myself just yet.

I may do cams eventually, but I don't like regrinds, I want brand new billets. And to have the grind that I want done on new billets will cost me around $800, which again, I don't have.

I want to play around w/ cam timing to see what I can get out of the stockers first.

Smaller ports arent neccesarily good. The most flow (cfm) on the smallest port with the most stable air flow is the best. If you shrink your ports you could easily destroy the flow characteristics of the heads and create turbulence let alone actually end up flowing less air and hurting power.
A light port, with almosr all the work done in problem areas like reshaping the combustion chambers, reducing restrictions in the intake tract, and small stuff like that, can easily keep your runner size down but greatly increase the amount of flow and the stability of the air all while maintaining the velocity from a small port.

That is a big problem on LT1s alot of guys just hog out the manifold and make shitty numbers, when the fast guys still running the stock manifold are doing a light port and addressing the probelms areas.


A well experienced porter could probably take a look at the heads and flow them and find out a few things in the runners or combustion chamber that are holding you back and fix em, especially on an older motor like that, seems like restrictions would be more obvious.
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Old 02-25-2008, 06:41 PM   #14
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Well at any rate, any kind of head modifications won't be done for awhile. Only .005" was taken off the head bc of some pitting, so still rather basic.

Slowly starting to put stuff together




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Old 02-27-2008, 06:52 PM   #15
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Mehhhh I didn't get as much done as I wanted to. I HATE plastigaging. It is so damn monotonous!

Piston rings installed


Then the pistons/rods got lonely and wanted a friend


Set in her seat, waiting for the plastigage


All torqued to spec. 75 ft/lbs. 3 passes @ 25 ft/lbs



Was going to put the rods in last night but I couldn't get the damn caps off. The machine shop installed the damn nuts pretty tight and now I'll have to put the rods in a vice to get the nuts off. OY!

More pix lata!
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