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Old 12-19-2009, 10:51 PM   #1
99integra
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My new project








Came from an older police interceptor. Has 150k miles on it and those are all the parts that I got with it. It was all free so I figured what the hell, once the 2.3 in Ranger dies out I can be done building this and swap it in.
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Old 12-20-2009, 07:50 PM   #2
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I've cleaned up the block and I've noticed there are some small chips along the top of the piston sleeve, should I be worried about this?
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Old 12-21-2009, 11:00 PM   #3
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You don't have enough (good) parts there to make this a viable project. By the time you found and purchased everything you need to make it complete, you'll spend a fortune. You don't even have the main caps for the block.

You'd be better off financially to go to Pick-A-Part (or whatever) and pull a complete 351 for $150 and go from there. Maybe you could use something you have for spares.
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Old 12-22-2009, 10:28 PM   #4
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Honestly I have no idea what the hell it is now because the water pump says GM...I'm just going to scrap this block and go junkyard jumpin.
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Old 12-23-2009, 04:20 AM   #5
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Best I can tell it is a Pontiac engine. But I agree with Hobo.... by the time you have the machine work done, buy the missing parts, you will have $$$$. In almost every case when dealing with cars it is a better deal to buy something complete and working than spend time riggin' a basket case.
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Old 12-23-2009, 03:37 PM   #6
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No, it's definitely a Ford Windsor block. Look at the shape of the pan rails, the location of the freeze plugs and oil filter adapter and the position of the motor mount lugs. The heads, crank, balancer, timing cover and flex plate are also Windsor parts. I'd say it's '79 or newer because it appears to have the dipstick tube hole in the pan rail (look just above the lower left freeze plug in Teg's picture and compare it to the early block in the picture below).



The only way to know for sure if it's a 351 or a 302 would be to either check casting numbers, or the quick way for a late block is to measure the head bolt holes... 7/16" = 302, 1/2" = 351.

The water pump is from a 3.8 liter GM engine found in zillions of FWD cars and would be useful only to sell as scrap aluminum.

Merry Christmas.
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Old 12-23-2009, 09:31 PM   #7
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Scraped it for 20 bucks..Off to the junkyard!
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Old 12-23-2009, 10:52 PM   #8
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I had another question actually. I wanted to know if I could lower my truck by cutting the coils and if so could I take 2 inches off the front and 3 inches off the rear? Other than a harsh ride what else will be affected?
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Old 12-24-2009, 04:40 AM   #9
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Cutting the coils is a great low buck way to lower the truck.... Play around with the amount you cut off. It is surprising how much you drop from just removing one coil. One coil should get you close to 2", start there and then cut more as needed for the desired effect. Then get an alignment. The worst problems you may encounter might be some bump steer due to the change in geometry, but the increase in spring rate may actually offer you a better ride.
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Old 12-25-2009, 01:06 AM   #10
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Do I need to do anything with the leafsprings in the rear?
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Old 12-27-2009, 12:54 AM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 99integra
Do I need to do anything with the leafsprings in the rear?
You'll need lowering blocks for the rear, but don't buy them until you dump the front so you know what size to get.

As for cutting springs increasing the spring rate, it does nothing of the sort. This is an old wives tale from years ago before people really understood how lowering works. If you take an 850 in/lb spring and cut one coil out of it, you still have an 850 in/lb spring. It's just one coil shorter.

What you may have to worry about is bottoming out on the bump stops or bottoming the shocks, depending on how low you go. And bump steer on your Ranger won't be a problem as long as you only go one coil. Beyond that you will get into steering and handling issues. Your best bet is to spend the money and get drop spindles.
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Old 12-27-2009, 04:39 AM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by vwhobo
You'll need lowering blocks for the rear, but don't buy them until you dump the front so you know what size to get.

As for cutting springs increasing the spring rate, it does nothing of the sort. This is an old wives tale from years ago before people really understood how lowering works. If you take an 850 in/lb spring and cut one coil out of it, you still have an 850 in/lb spring. It's just one coil shorter.

What you may have to worry about is bottoming out on the bump stops or bottoming the shocks, depending on how low you go. And bump steer on your Ranger won't be a problem as long as you only go one coil. Beyond that you will get into steering and handling issues. Your best bet is to spend the money and get drop spindles.
Alright, my grandpa wanted to heat up the damn coils to make them compress like how he did on his old stock cars but I don't really want to go that route. Sounds like its time to start saving some money.
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Old 12-27-2009, 02:59 PM   #13
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Tegster,

What year is your Ranger again?
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Old 12-27-2009, 10:30 PM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by vwhobo
Tegster,

What year is your Ranger again?
2004, no i beams or pre '96 tech
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Old 12-28-2009, 12:27 AM   #15
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Ah, Grasshopper, I thought it was older. Then I read your response and also actually looked at your signature...

You can get a complete kit - front spings, flip kit and shocks for about $250-$300. Probably cheaper with some shopping. Sorta like this;

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/RANGE...fAcces sories

I can tell you from experience that SpringTech makes decent stuff. Other companies do as well. The only actual special tool you'll need is a coil spring compresser, and even that you can get away without using. But you can go to Advance/Autozone/O'Reilly's/etc and borrow one for just a deposit so there's really no reason to.

Then tape the front tires for toe to make it drivable to an alignment shop. Make sure they can handle a lowered car before going to them.

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