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Old 06-23-2004, 09:37 PM   #31
cmeseadoin
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Pieface
before you spend your money...

go to advanded auto parts or autozoo(autozone)
and see if you can buy just the a/c clutch or if you have to buy the whole compressor if you can buy the clutch keep going but if not pay the 300 and get the pro to do it compressor's really are tough and your going to have to pay to have your system evacuated by a pro anyways...

note to cm: I'm a mechanic student right now and I honestly believe when I get out in the industry that i will earn every penny I make

Well Pieface, you go big guy...just a few words of advice first. Before you "get out in the industry," make sure you learn way more than you seem to know on this forum. Go back and read some of your postings (particularly with a/c) and I can tell you that you have typed information that is totally incorrect or made assumptions that are not necessarily true. You cannot take a problem, particularly online and with NO other information to go on, and roll it into a bunch of assumptions and then type an "if this then this" statement and expect people to buy it. It won't work and I can't stand it when people do that on here. You are supposed to take what the person types and ask probing questions so that you can help them narrow down where the problem might be....AND ALWAYS remember if the car ain't in front of you, you can't promise anything to anyone.

Because you've demonstrated that you are not a deep thinker and you are giving very shallow advice which may or may not help someone , you'd not touch a car of mine with a ten foot pole. Good luck, you've got a lot more learning to do before I'd consider you a mechanic. You're like the ones I cringe at the thought of making statement like: "Well, if the compressor doesn't come on when you press the button and you don't hear the engine rev slightly to compensate for the HP draw, then you might as well pay a professional to replace the compressor." Sound familiar? What kind of advice is this? Surely they teach you in automotive school that there are MANY things that could cause a compressor to not engage short of the compressor being bad? Use your head and THINK a little more than that.
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Old 06-24-2004, 01:28 AM   #32
DodgeRida67
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JaneiR36, please disregard everything Pieface told you.

And for the record, you can infact buy the compressor clutch. They are around $100.
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Old 06-24-2004, 02:40 AM   #33
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Dodgeman, I just figured we still don't know what part's broken for sure. Just to let everyone know, I'm reading all the responses but probably won't (really, can't) be doing anything else until I get the manual.




cm... thanks for your kind words earlier
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Old 06-24-2004, 01:34 PM   #34
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JaneiR36
Dodgeman, I just figured we still don't know what part's broken for sure. Just to let everyone know, I'm reading all the responses but probably won't (really, can't) be doing anything else until I get the manual.




cm... thanks for your kind words earlier

No Problem Jane..... Seems like you are well on your way to figuring this thing out. One note which I am sure you have gleaned thus far from this forum.....make wise decisions about whose advice you follow in here. Pieface, for example, is giving directions that are not worth their weight in salt. I am sure you read my dissertation on that from above but it just kills me when people come in and type out one liners saying, "OH YEAH, you definitly need a compressor if it doesn't come on when you push the button." These people are ignorant, ill-informed and to a degree, stupid. If you were to follow his advice before a proper diagnosis, you'd be spending 100's of dollars perhaps all for nothing. So just be forewarned. Look at the depth of advice people give you and the logic. You're doing fanastically for someone that claims to "not be a car person." After all this you've done, I'd let you work on my car WAY before Pieface would touch it. Hell, his screename tells me all I need to know about him. (Ie. YOUNG, DUMB, and ill-educated, yet thinks he's a mechanic.....just read his postings and you'll see that thought is SCAREY) Pretty much sums it up!! Good luck Jane and we'll continue helping as you work!
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Old 06-24-2004, 07:05 PM   #35
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JaneiR36
I'm replying to three posts at once, I hope that's okay.

Yes, I called them this morning. $118. I'm working on some other options, but I'll let you know as soon as I get a hold of those diagrams. I'm just remembering one of vwhobo's posts that said to insist on a free repair manual whenever you buy a car. I guess I'll keep that in mind for the future.


.

Jane try the public library. Most have a good selection of auto books, some will even have your car model. Haynes and Chilton both have books with wiring diagrams and A/C.
You can't take them home but you can copy all you want.
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Old 06-25-2004, 08:33 AM   #36
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jcutsh
Jane try the public library. Most have a good selection of auto books, some will even have your car model. Haynes and Chilton both have books with wiring diagrams and A/C.
You can't take them home but you can copy all you want.

Hayne's doesn't have an A/C wiring diagram. My library had a Chilton's manual, but not for my year. I checked it out, anyway, just to get familiar with what the circuits might look like. Currently I'm waiting for shipping of a manual I ordered online - 20 bucks off of ebay. From the description of this product (it's on CD), it may or may not be legit, but it's still a hell of a lot better than spending $118. I'll let you all know once it arrives.
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Old 06-30-2004, 10:56 PM   #37
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DodgeRida67 maybe you can help me?

Hope you all don't mind me jumping in on this thread.
I'm having A/c trouble on a 97 Mustang. I'm looking at it for a friend. She was told by a Ford dealer it would cost $1500 just in parts. They said it needs a new compressor, accumulator and lines. I found the parts online for under $500. So i don't trust them. Anyway, friend says A/C worked great, car sat undriven for 3 days then started blowing hot air.

Used voltage meter like you posted.
Disconnect harness at compressor and messured only 0.02v
Hot harness to ground was .08
Neg. harness to pos. battery is 13.89v
Ohms at compressor was 3.8 ohms

All these were the same with the A/c on reg. or Max. and in the off postition.
Fan blows a lot harder when I put it on Max A/C (seems like the switch is working) but all votage readings stays the same at compressor harness.
any info would be great?
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Old 06-30-2004, 11:10 PM   #38
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Old 06-30-2004, 11:16 PM   #39
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BavarianWheels
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**ego boost**
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What?


Anyway, JaneiR36, did you see where smfg said "Ohms at compressor was 3.8 ohms" That's what you should be getting. You said you got over 100 OHMS. Bad news....

So obviously, smfg, you know how to test the compressor OHMs.(clutch OHMs actually) please tell us what wires or terminals to test with our OHM meter at!
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Old 07-05-2004, 03:30 PM   #40
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DAMN. Do you get what you pay for, or what? I ordered that (probably) BOOTLEG manual almost two weeks ago, and I still haven't seen it in the mail. It might have arrived today (just like it "might" have arrived any number of days in the past two weeks), but of course mail doesn't get delivered during a USPS holiday.

When I ordered my operation manual from Toyota, they had it on my doorstep within two days. This really SUCKS that you have to pay so much just go get an item delivered on time.

Anyhoo..... still waiting on the repair manual. Was losing interest in continuing on the work for a while there, but I've got my second wind now!
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Old 07-14-2004, 12:42 AM   #41
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Ugh. They sent me a second manual in the mail when I complained about not having received the first one. I still ain't received either one of them.

By the way, did ya'll ever get around to helping smfg? I think s/he needed some help but wound up being asked to give it (to me). Please don't forget to help him/her if you can.
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Old 07-14-2004, 05:35 PM   #42
cmeseadoin
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JaneiR36
Ugh. They sent me a second manual in the mail when I complained about not having received the first one. I still ain't received either one of them.

By the way, did ya'll ever get around to helping smfg? I think s/he needed some help but wound up being asked to give it (to me). Please don't forget to help him/her if you can.


SMFG will start a new thread if they want assistance with a problem. There is not enough time in a year to seek out previous threads where people "chime" in and post their problems within the dialogue of someone else's. If someone can help at the time, that is great, but the only way to be recognized is to start a new thread with what you have going on as well as all the info. you have for your issue.....AFTER you introduce yourself of course!
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Old 08-04-2004, 01:43 AM   #43
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So I finally got the manual (is that an echo I hear? he he...). Anyhoo. Here a drawing of what I understand to be my compressor (or clutch?) terminals:



If you recall the colors I described before, they seem to match with the wiring diagram. So I measured the resistance between the terminal connected to the black wire (on the clutch, not the harness itself) and the negative terminal of the battery. After a little jumping around, the resistance finally settled at 4.5 ohms!!! WOOHOO!!!!!

Okay, if any of you all are still reading this thread (a very special someone has threatened to leave at least five or six times since I've been here ), what do I do now? Thanks again!
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Old 08-07-2004, 01:33 AM   #44
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So 40-some odd posts later, I finally finished up the first instructions

I measured the voltage at the AC relay. Here is a circuit diagram:



The second readings, if any, are the readings when the AC is turned on:

1 - 13.59 V, 14.43 V
2 - 0.16 V, 0.45 V
3 - 14.75V, 14.57 V
5 - 0 V

I honestly don't understand why 1 and 5 are not exactly the same. I know if the wires are connected, there would be a splicing symbol, but where else could that exiting from pin 5 be going? So I've got the readings, but can't quite interpret them. Please help!!!!!
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Old 08-07-2004, 04:10 PM   #45
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Alright! A WIRING DIAGRAM! WOOOOOO! Just what we needed. OK - so now we know the clutch is OK.

Now we need to test the relay. So I'm going to need more readings (didnt i tell you that meter would be usuful more than once)


I need voltage between wires 1 & 2. If you get a voltage reading lower than 11 volts, turn the car off, disconnect the ground terminal on the battery and measure OHMs between wires 1 & 2.

After this test, if you have voltage (higher than 11 volts) at wires 1 & 2 ( with the a/c controls on) you should have voltage at wires 5 & 3 at the same time. if you have voltage in wires 1 & 2, but not 5 & 3, your relay is fried.


EDIT: If you don't have voltage at wires 5 & 3 when you have voltage at 1 & 2, try measuring from 5 & a good ground. ( just to be 100% )

Last edited by DodgeRida67 : 08-07-2004 at 04:13 PM.
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