If you want to go faster at the strip then your auto will serve you well.
Dont listen to new yorker hes a dumbass and hates domestics, cause his shits slow.
First I think your car probably needs some maintenace. What'd it trap?
First Id reccomend completely going through and freshening up on all the maintenace.
Check Fuel Pressure and make sure your fuel pump is still working good which I suspect it is.
New Wires (I would only recommend the MSD superconductors as the taylors will arc on everything) Route them over the valve covers for ease (thunderracing makes a kit but it comes with taylor wires) Its really hard to route them through the stock location.
Replace ALL FLUIDS, except maybe tranny fluid depending on miles and condition of the tranny.
The mods. Always make sure the car is in great mechanical shape before you mod.
Id start with headers and Y pipe LPP makes polished stainless stuff for real cheap or maybe pacesetters. Go Longtubes or dont bother.
If you want to save money keep the stock catback (also gives it a sleeper look and sound) and run an electric cutout for when your at the strip.
Then an CAI, Id recomend the Moroso or the K&N.
Then check your gears, the autos came with 2.73s and 3.23s. the 2.73s suck for racing. If you drive it on the street alot and dont want to hurt mileage to mcuh id step up to 3:42s out of a 6speed car and if you can Id get them out of a Later LS1 so you get the better diff (I think its Torsen).
You cna check gear ratio by looking at the RPO codes but I have a 6speed so I dont remeber the exact code.
If you are willing to give up a little mileage Id go 3.73s. They work great in an auto car.
Then do a tranny cooler and a higher RPM stall. I think most bolt on guys go with a 2800-3200 rpm stall. This will really help ETs, more than any of your other mods.
Then your gonna need some traction, you can do soem basic rear suspension like Lower control arms and LCA relocation brackets, and comp engineering shock (they are only like 50 bucks a pop).
Then tires. Id reccomend getting two stock 16"s (they can be picked up real cheap) and moutning some drag radials on them for the days at the track. Id reccomend Mickey Tompson ET Street radials, they come in a 255/50/16.
Then finish the rest of the bolt ons so you have a better platform for future mods. I am a big advocate of an electric waterpump for easy of change and the stress removed from the valvetrain.
Then a TB and elbow. Lose the stock rubber intake elbow, and the weak TB some people say it wont help but more air is more air, and while your doing it might as well go with the 58mm.
Then if you plan on camming it later Id leave it alone and start saving for the cam, if you plan to stay stock cam get some Lt4 roller rockers and LT4 valve springs. Do not do 1.6 RRs and stay stock springs.
At this point you can spray it. The lT1 is good for 150 shot but some keep it safe and run a 100 shot.
Wet vs Dry shot is a whole nother story. Their are advocates for both sides. I prefer wet shots.
Or you may want to stay NA, if your ona budget Id go cam only for a while, if you can save go ahead and do heads and cam. But I could write pages on cam selection so we will save that for later.
You will also need tuning I can reccomend some good LT1 tuners if you let me know were you are located. In an auto youll want a tune after the gears for sure and definetly after the TB and converter as it will throw off the tranny. You can drive the headers and intake without the tune for a while but youll be leaving alot of power and economy on the table if you do. Most guys charge a flat rate for the initial tune and a discount price for the retunes if it is small changes like TB or verter or gears.
And heres some videos for fun.
A pretty quick cam only LT1
A pretty quick bolt on Lt1 vs a bolt on Mach 1
Same guys vs cammed 5.slow
I love my LT1 and they can be quick fun cars when maintained and built properly.
If you have anymore questions just let me know