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Old 02-26-2005, 02:35 PM   #16
Pure Amature
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Leaky Radiator

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Originally Posted by 88GrandPrixSE
Not the best of ideas, one of engine coolant's functions is to keep the block from rusting, iron block, iron is probably the most easily rusted metal out there, you're rusting the inside of your block, not a good idea. Coolant is also designed to take higher temperatures, which washer fluid is not, you're going to hurt something.

Just tighten up the hose clamp or cut a bit off the hose if it's cut then replace it.

Thanks alot guys.
I appreciate it the advice.

P.A.
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Old 02-27-2005, 08:15 AM   #17
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Originally Posted by Pure Amature
Hi all
I have a leak coming from the hose that connects to the bottem of the waterpump on my 1992 Chevy Caprice.

Currently I do not have the finances to take it to a repair shop...
I want to try and fix it myself, with the help of a few friends.

Because the leak is slow ( but steady) I have been using Wndshield Washer Fluid mixed with Water in place of Anti-freeze ( W.W.F is much cheaper as you know, and with the alcohol base my thinking was that it will keep my Block from freezing until I can get the proper repairs done)

Am I harming my Radiator and/or Cooling System by th doing this?

Thanks in advance
Pure Amature
What you are doing is very, VERY, bad. Anti-freeze is glycol based which in addition to being difficult to freeze also acts like a lubricant for your water pump. Washer fluid is a cleaner/solvent and being in your cooling system is cleaning all of the lubrication off of your waterpump and causing a premature failure, in addition it is FLAMABLE!
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Old 02-27-2005, 08:26 AM   #18
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"[color=MediumTurquoise] A) I've got flow by touch from the intake hose. It starts slow and increases in pressure as the engine warms (no thermy...yanked it)."

This statement is the crux of your problem. The cooling system needs the themostat in place to slow the flow of coolant enough to transfer heat from the engine block to the coolant which then goes to the radiator and transfers the heat to the air (through the radiator tubes and fins). Without the themostat the coolant just whips by the hot engine and does not have time to remove the heat. The engine will remain cool to the touch when idling because there is no excessive heat generated like while driving. I am hoping that you have not done any damage to your engine by overheating the cylinder walls.
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Old 02-27-2005, 09:23 AM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by srober32
"[color=MediumTurquoise] A) I've got flow by touch from the intake hose. It starts slow and increases in pressure as the engine warms (no thermy...yanked it)."

This statement is the crux of your problem. The cooling system needs the themostat in place to slow the flow of coolant enough to transfer heat from the engine block to the coolant which then goes to the radiator and transfers the heat to the air (through the radiator tubes and fins). Without the themostat the coolant just whips by the hot engine and does not have time to remove the heat. The engine will remain cool to the touch when idling because there is no excessive heat generated like while driving. I am hoping that you have not done any damage to your engine by overheating the cylinder walls.

No.... It keeps the motor cooler without the thermo. Thermo's there to keep the motor warm to increase economy (more power when cold) and to give the driver some heat. It doesn't matter whether water is moving or not to absorb heat, it's always in contact with the cyl. walls so it's always absorbing heat, and it's always cooler also since it's constantly making the big trip around the motor to the rad, so it cools it more.

Think of it this way, you have a hot steamy piece of metal and dunk it in a bucket of water, it cools instantly. Another hot steamy piece of metal and dunk it in water and spin it really quickly, it'll still cool instantly, if anything, it'd cool faster due to the fact that it's comin in contact with cooler water.
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Old 02-27-2005, 10:22 AM   #20
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Yes, and no, the themostat reduces the flow rate through the engine to alow the coolant effective heat transfer by remaining in contact with the hot cylinders inside the engine for a slightly greater period of time it also allows the coolant to stay in the radiator longer to radiate more heat from the coolant. I had a problem just like this with my '74 Nova when I removed the thermostat. It would run colder while idling and would over heat while running at about 65 MPH, until I replaced it with a new thermostat and amazingly enough the temp stayed the same at idle and at freeway speeds.

Last edited by srober32 : 02-27-2005 at 10:40 AM. Reason: hold it reverse it
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Old 02-27-2005, 07:28 PM   #21
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The flowing coolant radiates more heat than stationary coolant, im sure you know anything moving cools faster than something just sitting there. For instence, I popped mine out of my GP because of over-heating problems, it never got over 50 degrees, and it was getting cold outside so.. that's when i decided to replace it, now it goes up to 110.

The radiator is more effective when it's in contact with warmer coolant, I'm sure you know this too. What I mean is... once the coolant in the rad is cool (with a thermostat) the rad is no longer really doing anything, because the coolant has already gotten pretty cold. Without the thermo it's constantly in contact wit the warmer coolant out of the motor so it cools it effectively. Here's an example of what I mean because I can't think of an easy way to explain that haha. Okay, you bring a cup water to it's boiling point (100) and one to half that (50). The water at 100 is going to cool a lot faster than the one at 50 at room temperature. After 1 minute, the one that was at 100 may be at 50 now, while the one that was at 50 is now at 35. You know what I mean?
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Old 02-27-2005, 10:03 PM   #22
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Whatever anyone's rash reasoning behind all of this Jibba Jabber, the ford motor company didn't spend millions and millions of dollars on research and developement just for someone to tell them they don't need a thermostat inside the motor they designed, Bluefrog just put the damn thermostat back in, really..... it's thier for a reason. and whoever try's to say it's not really isn't helping you out.
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Old 02-28-2005, 02:29 AM   #23
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Whatever anyone's rash reasoning behind all of this Jibba Jabber, the ford motor company didn't spend millions and millions of dollars on research and developement just for someone to tell them they don't need a thermostat inside the motor they designed, Bluefrog just put the damn thermostat back in, really..... it's thier for a reason. and whoever try's to say it's not really isn't helping you out.

You don't need it though. All it does is keep the motor warm for better fuel economy and so the motor will last longer obviously.
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Old 02-28-2005, 03:05 AM   #24
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Interesting statements to say the least.

BTW the thermostat is there to ennsure the lower temperature limit is achieved. The radiator fan is there to ensure the higher temperature limit is not exceeded.

Now here is your first and final warning: if you run without a thermostat you risk the engine being too cool. If you run an engine too cool your bore and ring wear will increase exponentially. You will also sludge the oil. There you have been warned.
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Old 02-28-2005, 03:08 AM   #25
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Wally
Interesting statements to say the least.

BTW the thermostat is there to ennsure the lower temperature limit is achieved. The radiator fan is there to ensure the higher temperature limit is not exceeded.

Now here is your first and final warning: if you run without a thermostat you risk the engine being too cool. If you run an engine too cool your bore and ring wear will increase exponentially. You will also sludge the oil. There you have been warned.

Exactly. It's not a SURE thing that your bore will increase, especially on an older motor that has already had it's bore slightly increased due to normal use. May even keep it closer to what it should be on an older motor.
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Old 02-28-2005, 08:27 PM   #26
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Since it is not my engine, I cannot tell you what to do regarding the thermostat. What I said about replacing the themostat is standard procedure and should be followed, however, if you insist that your car does not need it...no skin off of my nose. No hard and fast rules there, no law saying you have to like with catalytic converters and such. Just giving my opinion in the spirit of the board.
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Old 03-03-2005, 11:30 PM   #27
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Blown Head Gasket?

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Thanks alot guys.
I appreciate it the advice.

P.A.

BTW....What are some tell-tale signs of a damaged or blown head gasket in my 1992 Caprice?
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Old 03-03-2005, 11:48 PM   #28
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White smoke from the tailpipe, loss of coolant, loss of power, water in motor oil, oil in coolant, engine not turning over, engine overheating, engine misfiring.
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Old 03-04-2005, 04:34 AM   #29
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White smoke from the tailpipe, loss of coolant, loss of power, water in motor oil, oil in coolant, engine not turning over, engine overheating, engine misfiring.


Thanks again.
Got a chance to look at it up on the rack today...the coolant is leaking straight out from beneath the WaterPump....so I guess I found my "leak"

PA
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Old 03-04-2005, 04:57 AM   #30
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hmm

my 86 escort did that. i put a new radiator cap on it and it was fine ever since.

honestly.
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